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New ConstructionBy Anthony Grynchal5 min read

Should You Use the Builder's Preferred Lender?

An incentive tied to the builder's lender is only worth something if the loan underneath it is competitive. How to run an honest side-by-side comparison.

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Somewhere in a new-home conversation, a lender gets recommended. Sometimes an incentive is attached to using them: a contribution to closing costs, a rate arrangement, a credit of some kind.

The reflexive positions are both wrong. Refusing on principle can cost you real money. Accepting without comparing can cost you considerably more, quietly, over many years.

The correct posture is neither trust nor suspicion. It is ARITHMETIC, done once, properly, before you commit.

This article extends the new-construction guide and follows the negotiation article, where incentives are one of the currencies on the table.

Why an affiliated lender exists at all

There are ordinary reasons a seller of new homes wants a lender close to the transaction. A lender who knows the project, the timeline and the appraisal situation causes fewer surprises, and a seller with houses to deliver has a genuine interest in closings that happen on time.

There can also be a business relationship between the parties. Where one exists, it is subject to disclosure requirements, and you should receive that disclosure. Read it. It tells you the shape of the relationship, which is useful context even when everything about the arrangement is entirely proper.

What the disclosure does not tell you is whether the loan is a good loan. That is your job.

The comparison that actually settles it

Most buyers compare the wrong thing. They compare an incentive against no incentive, which always favours the incentive.

The right comparison is TOTAL COST OF THE WHOLE PACKAGE, one against the other, on the same day.

Get a written quote from the affiliated lender and a written quote from at least one independent lender, ideally two. Ask for them on the same day, because pricing moves and a stale quote flatters whichever one is newer.

Then insist on the same loan on both sides. The same loan amount, the same term, the same product, the same down payment, the same assumptions about points. Comparing a thirty-year fixed with points against a different structure without points is not a comparison, it is a category error.

Now put them side by side and look at the interest rate, the annual percentage rate, every lender fee, any discount points, and the credits being offered. Then do the only sum that matters: what does each option cost me at closing, and what does each option cost me every month for as long as I hold this loan?

An incentive is a one-time benefit. A rate is a payment you make hundreds of times. It is entirely possible for a generous credit to be outweighed by a modestly worse rate, and equally possible for the affiliated lender to simply be the better deal. You will not know which until you do the sum.

The conditions attached

Ask what the incentive actually requires, and get it in writing.

Is it conditioned on using the affiliated lender, the affiliated title company, both, or neither. Is it conditioned on a particular loan product. Is there a minimum loan amount. Does it survive if you switch lenders later. Does it expire, and when.

Ask also what happens if the affiliated lender declines your file or the loan changes during a long build. That is a real scenario on a construction timeline, and it interacts with the questions in the deposit article.

And confirm that you are not required to use anyone. You are entitled to choose your own lender. An incentive may be lost by choosing differently, which is a price, not a prohibition.

Long builds change the question

On a house that will not be finished for many months, the loan you are quoted at the start may not be the loan you close on.

So ask both lenders the same set of questions about time. What protection is available over my actual timeline, what does it cost, what happens if the build runs long, and what happens if my circumstances change before closing.

Underwriting looks again close to the finish line. Treat your credit position as frozen for the duration of the build, and tell your lender before you take on any new obligation. The timing issues sit alongside the questions in the completion and delay article.

If you are financing a build rather than buying a finished house, that is a different instrument again, and the construction loan guide is the right starting point.

Keep the comparison to yourself until it is done

You are not obliged to relay one lender's quote to another, and there is rarely a benefit in doing so mid-process. Gather the written quotes first, compare them privately, then decide.

Remember also who is who in the room. The sales office represents the seller, as the sales office article explains, and a lender introduced through it is not your advisor either. That is not a criticism of anyone; it is the arrangement, and it argues for getting an independent quote rather than against anything.

The honest summary

Sometimes the affiliated lender wins the comparison outright, incentive included, and taking it is the right decision. Sometimes an independent lender is enough cheaper on rate and fees that the incentive does not close the gap.

Both outcomes are common. The failure is not choosing either one; it is choosing without the two quotes on the table.

Where to go next

Return to the hub above for the wider sequence, then read the contract-reading article, since any condition attached to an incentive should appear in the paperwork you sign.

If you are buying new in Claremont and want someone helping you weigh the whole package, get in touch. Anthony Grynchal has been licensed in California since November 2009.

Frequently asked questions

Do I have to use the builder's lender?

No. You are entitled to choose your own lender. Choosing differently may mean forgoing an incentive, which is a cost to weigh rather than a rule preventing you.

How do I compare a lender incentive fairly?

Get written quotes on the same day for the same loan from the affiliated lender and at least one independent lender, then compare rate, APR, all fees, points and credits, and total both the closing cost and the monthly cost.

Is a rate buy-down through the builder's lender a good deal?

Only if the underlying loan is competitive. A discount on an expensive loan is not a saving. Price the same product elsewhere before deciding.

What should I ask about financing on a long build?

What rate protection is available over your real timeline, what it costs, what happens if the build runs long, and what happens if your circumstances change before closing.

Anthony Grynchal, Mr. Claremont, in the Claremont Village

Written by

Anthony Grynchal

Anthony Grynchal is a California real estate professional with eXp Realty, licensed since November 2009 (California DRE# 01873626), and the Designated Local Expert™ for Claremont — where he has lived for more than 33 years.

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